"A Little Tour of France" by Henry James 1900 (9)

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The little manor of Clochegourde, the of Madame de Mortsauf, the heroine of that extraordinary work, was within a moderate walk of Tours, and the picture in the novel is presumably a copy from an which it would be possible to-day to discover. I did not, however, even make the attempt. There are so many châteaux in Touraine in history that it would take one too far to look up those which have been commemorated in fiction. The most I did was to endeavour to identify the former residence of Mademoiselle Gamard, the sinister old maid of “Le Curé de Tours.” This terrible woman a small house in the rear of the cathedral, where I a whole morning in wondering rather which house it could be. To reach the cathedral from the little place where we stopped just now to look across at the Grenadière, without, it must be confessed, very seeing it, you follow the quay to the right and pass out of sight of the côteau which, from beyond the river, faces the town—a soft agglomeration of gardens, vineyards, villas, gables and turrets of slate- châteaux, terraces with grey balustrades, moss-grown walls draped in scarlet Virginia-creeper. You turn into the town again beside a great military barrack which is ornamented with a rugged mediæval tower, a relic of the ancient fortifications, to the Tourangeaux of to-day as the Tour de Guise.